BBC THE FORUM // MAKING SCENTS: THE STORY OF PERFUME

In this interesting podcast Bridget Kendall explores the modern history of perfume, including both its ancient roots and the scientific findings that transformed it into what we know it as today. The podcast features scientist and critic Luca Turin, writer and curator Lizzie Ostrom, and the perfumer Thomas Fontaine.

Personally, I found the conceptual part of this discussion more interesting than the scientific part, and found that it relates to my study much more. What is first discussed between the speakers is the open question: what defines perfume? It is referred to as a chemical poem, done by arranging chemicals with different scents to generate an idea, impression or feeling, which is what gives perfume the power to evoke emotions, influence us, awaken our senses or stir memories. It is explained that a smell has no intent, but a perfume does, and is shaped by peoples personal tastes. Perfume can also be more simply described as a cosmetic product that is part of our daily morning routine, and an object that is based on vanity. Perfume is discussed as not just a smell, but a form of communication and a representation of many things such as religion, hospitality or seduction. Others refer to perfume as a 'story in a bottle' - perhaps a story about the scent itself, or a story about the brand. What the podcast mainly highlights is the question: how did this liquid substance become something sold to us as a luxury?

During the 1840's, chemistry heavily evolved which lead to many discoveries, many of which were accidental, about new scents. The late 19th century was a time when fragrance chemistry was breaking new frontiers. In the 20th century is when the art of perfume really did evolve; collectively, the arts of creativity and craft, science, and development of consumer culture are what creates a perfume you find on a store shelf ready to be sold. Today, the world of fragrance and its industry is largely about advertising and marketing messages; currently, many of the marketing messages for fragrances tell us that the perfume will transform out lives in one way or another, in the same way that the name of a perfume may suggest the way it'll impact your behaviour or how others around you may react to the smell. Another principle of perfume today is the relationship between the bottle and the scent. The bottle itself usually suggests something to us consumers about the scent inside. Personally, as a consumer, I feel that the name, bottle and advert all really impact my decision when perfume shopping, which of course is expected, but I am also heavily influenced by the colour scheme too.





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